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M
is for Merlot
If
Chardonnay is the white wine of choice at watering
holes all across America, then Merlot typically
is the wine poured when one orders "a glass
of red."
Merlot
is among the more approachable of red wines,
and that profile is largely responsible for
its popularity. As a new generation of wine
drinkers began to make the almost inevitable
transition from white wines to reds, Merlot
not only was approachable; it was available.
So
as we continue our alphabetic journey through
the wonderful world of wine, "M,"
as you undoubtedly have surmised, is for "Merlot."
Behind
Merlot's Popularity
Merlot
seldom was seen as a varietal bottling until
the 1980s, when its popularity was fueled by
the convergence of four developments:
- The
"Me Decade." A generation of young
adults, focused on instant gratification,
began seeking out the finer things in life—including
wine.
- Wine
critic Robert Parker and Wine Spectator magazine
gained widespread exposure for their 100-point
grading systems. "Me Decade" consumers
no longer had to think about the wine they
bought; they simply began relying on ratings.
- Morley
Safer reported on the health benefits of wine
consumption—especially red wine—on
"60 Minutes," instantly transforming
vino from taboo, in the minds of some, to
trendy.
- As
Americans flocked to supermarkets to stock
up on their new "health beverage,"
trial and error pushed Merlot past Cabernet
Sauvignon and other red varieties in popularity.
Reason: It was perceived as "smoother"
and not as "bitter" as Cabernet.
Vintners
saw the handwriting on the wall, planted thousands
of acres of new Merlot vineyards, and toasted
their new "cash crop."
Merlot's
Historic Roots
Historically,
Merlot was not the everyday wine of the masses.
In
fact, it was (and still is) the primary grape
in the great French bottlings of St.-Emilion
and Pomerol. And it is one of the two primary
grapes—the other being Cabernet Sauvignon—of
fine Bordeaux.
Indeed,
when planted in the right areas, using the right
clones, Merlot grapes can be transformed into
truly mesmerizing wines.
The
Aromas And Flavors Of Merlot
Because
it has been over-planted, sometimes in areas
that are less than ideal for the grape, the
aroma and flavor spectrum of Merlot is wider
than it should be.
When
planted where the climate is too warm or too
cold, or where the soil is sandy, Merlot can
be thin, vegetal and overly alcoholic.
However,
when Merlot is planted in the right regions,
the resulting wines are both rich and fruity.
Common descriptors associated with high-quality
Merlot include plum, chocolate, black currant,
cherry and mint.
ACWC's
wine finders work hard to locate only the highest-quality
Merlot bottlings to share with members. That
effort—combined with the persnickety nature
of the ACWC Tasting Panel—is what separates
ACWC-featured Merlots from the mass-produced
bottlings found on supermarket shelves.
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