J is For Jumilla

   You meet the nicest people in the wine business . . . and you make a lot of friends. I count my blessings every day for that, because not a day goes by that I don't renew acquaintances with someone I've met while winding through vineyard land or spelunking in wine caves.

   Just the other day, a "wine friend" of mine and I were talking about -- what else? -- wine, and he mentioned that in recent months, he had tasted A LOT of great wines from Spain. And in particular, the Jumilla area of Spain.

A Surprising Revelation

   That surprised me a little bit, because Jumilla has never had a reputation for producing world-class wines. The vino produced there wasn't bad, mind you; it just wasn't at the top of the list of wine lovers.

   I guess I didn't keep my skepticism hidden too well, because the next thing I knew, my friend was popping corks on two bottles of wine from Jumilla. I swirled, sniffed and sipped -- just like "wine people" are supposed to do -- and I was amazed at what I experienced.

   Both wines were fresh, floral and fruity -- in a word, they were delicious.

   So I decided to do some more research on my own, and "discovered" quite a few wines from Jumilla that are every bit as enjoyable as more famous wines from more famous wine regions of the world.

   And that's why this week, as we continue our A-to-Z journey through the wonderful world of wine . . .

"J" is For Jumilla

   So where is this "hidden" wine region that's making these wonderful bottlings?

   You'll find Jumilla south of Madrid, and north of Spain's sherry-producing area. It's along the East Coast of Spain.

   This is semi-arid country, which means the grape growers have to pay attention to the vines not just during harvest season, but throughout the year. Those that work their vines are producing top-quality fruit and great wines. Those that ignore their vines end up with lesser wines.

The Blessing Of Phylloxera

   We've written about the scourge of phylloxera often in The Grapevine and in these Cyber Reports. It's a root louse that leads to the strangulation of grapevines, and has wiped out entire wine regions at various times in history.

   So how could phylloxera possibly be a "blessing"? Well, when it spread through the vineyards of Jumilla during the 1980s, it destroyed vineyards planted with grape varieties that, quite frankly, were not well suited for the climate.

   With a fresh start, the farmers and winemakers were able to replant with varieties that science and experience have shown would fare well in the area. The result has been a quantum leap in wine quality.

Pushing The Quality Envelope

   Today, the favored red wines of Jumilla are Monastrell and Tempranillo (sometimes called Cencibel), while the most popular whites now are Merseguera and Airen.

   But Jumilla's wine renaissance doesn't stop with the grapes being grown there. It extends into the cellars of the wineries, where the use of American Oak barrels has become widespread for the first time ever. These barrels add aroma and flavor nuances that Jumilla wines never had before.

   So when the opportunity presents itself, give a Jumilla wine a try. I think you'll be pleasantly surprised . . . just as I was when my friend shared his Jumilla experience with me.

   And when you pop that Jumilla cork, keep in mind that wine almost always is enhanced by good company and good food.